Learning About Amp Glow

èp

This week, I’ve been learning about amp glow but unfortunately it’s been via the hard way. I’ve been inaugurating my QHY 294M camera through my Astro Tech AT102 refractor. I started building a dark library and I noticed this strange glow from the right edge of my dark frames. At first I thought maybe I had a light leak somewhere, but after checking and ruling out that possibility, my investigation arrived at the real culprit - amp glow.

Amplifier glow refers to a glow you would get in an image that is primarily caused by the camera. Now we simply refer to it as just “glow” and it is generally caused by the heat from the readout circuitry of the imaging chip. For CCD cameras, it was generally caused by the amplifier that, with the rest of the chip’s circuitry was located on the chip frame.

However, Complimentary Metal Oxide Semiconductors (CMOS) cameras like my QHY 294M, the circuitry is integrated with the pixels on the sensor. Each pixel has the ADC, clock generators and other circuitry integrated with it. The circuitry can generate heat and Near Infrared light which can cause glows on your image. In my case, I wound up with my dark frames looking like the one I’ve attached and the longer the exposure time, the brighter the glow seems to get. This will definitely be a problem when you process your light frames.

Access anywhere, at any time, the world’s largest database of astrophotography data ready to be downloaded and post-processed.
Try it free

So how do we address this? The general recommendations I’ve found have been pretty consistent no matter what source I read or forum I looked at.

First, glows are generally removed by subtracting a properly constructed master dark frame. To create a solid master dark, make sure you capture your dark frames (generally 20 to 30) at the same temperature, exposure time, gain and offset settings as you did your light frames.

Second, when you calibrate your light frames use the master dark frame, master flat frame and master dark flat frame. Apparently a master bias frame will not help and it’s not recommended to be used.

Third, if your calibration software has a dark optimization feature, disable it. If this feature is enabled during calibration it will scale the master dark and could result in a mismatch with any glows in the light frame. It may even make the problem much worse, leaving you with nothing but yelling #@!&#*&!. However, if done correctly, things seem to work out Ok.

Start now your 1-week free trial to observe the night skies as you never did before.
Try it free

Stay safe and get your neighbors to turn off their lights at night….


This blog post was originally published in our Telescope Live Community.

The Community represents Telescope Live's virtual living room, where people exchange ideas and questions around astrophotography and astronomy. 

Join the conversation now to find out more about astrophotography and to improve your observation and post-processing skills!

Comments

And it's a "me too" with this issue. I have a ZWO ASI178mm-cool and when I saw what like a star burst, the same as the image above, I too though the camera was faulty. However, as you say it is a "feature" of these types of cameras. Also as this camera is cooled I would have expected the issue to reduce as the temerature goes down (I usually use -20C) but it doesn't seem to, cannot figure that one out...
Also what I have done is built up a library of dark frames taken using the exposure length, gain, offset and temperature(s) I normally take images at, this saves going through the process when I am trying imaging.

I too had this issue with a 183c based camera, exactly the same starburst glow on the right hand side of the image. I queried it with the support desk of the manufacturer, to be told, "Don't worry, this is perfectly normal, the camera is not defective it's just the way you process the images." They also argued this isn't amp glow, it's electroluminescent noise and a feature of the camera. I then spent a lot of time working out a curve below which the "feature" was minimised by trading off gain against exposure time and very important using the reference offset. To me this is a reflection of the immaturity of the technology and a feature of repurposing CCTV sensors and DSLR sensors for much more rigorous conditions. I was also informed the latest more expensive sensors have zero such glows!!! Very helpful. Though your advice above is spot on, you can mostly calibrate this out with a good master dark at longer exposures it becomes impossible and I have to resort to cropping - I almost got to the point of returning it. I have to say this is one feature I hate but one I guess we have to bear with for being at the leading edge of the chase for sensitivity!!!!